The awe-inspiring Atlantes standing at the ruins of Tula, outside Mexico City

The church is all that remains of the village of Paricutin, hemmed in on all sides by lava

The new volcano of Paricutin, which emerged in the 1940s

Teotihuacan, an impressive ancient site just outside Mexico City, with some seriously large pyramids

English version below

En San Francisco ahora, recuperando, descansando. He terminado mi viaje por Latinoamerica, más rico por la experiencia, más pobre según el banco.

Mi última semana en México fue muy bueno, en Michoacán para visitar "el nuevo volcán de Paricutín" (muy extraordinario) y pasar unos días en la playa de Maruata donde pensé ver a mi amigo Karl (visitando desde Inglaterra) pero no pudimos encontrarnos aunque estuvimos en el mismo pueblo el mismo día! Sin embargo, todo fue bien porque Karl tuvo la oportunidad para visitar muchos más lugares y yo conocí a Vincenzo, un buen hombre de Italia – un turista mexicano nos dijo que parecimos un poco extraño, un chino y un italiano hablando una mezcla de español y italiano...

Y mi último fin de semana en el DF (la ciudad de México) también fue fantastico, con Ben y Yasmina (mis amigos que viven allá), y Karl, y mi amigo Callum. Continué ser una noveldad para los mexicanos – en Teotihuacán, hubo un grupo grande de estudiantes jóvenes que me trató como una celebridad (comprendo ahora un poco de las privaciones de celebridad!), y en Xochimilco, los mariachis fueron los unos sacar fotos de nosotros!! Fue divertido!

He visto mucho, aprendiendo mucho durante el viaje. He sido una sorpresa cómo diversas ser los indígenas, especialmente en cuanto de idioma, porque diferentes grupos migraron a las Américas desde Asia a diferentes tiempos. He estado recopilando unas palabras indígenas en unos lugares y las diferencias son fascinantes -- por ejemplo, "buenos días" es "sakcari" en Tz'utujil (alrededor del lago de Atitlán en Guatemala), "nas eransco" en Purépecha (en las tierras altas de Michoacán) y "kinamikilanesepampadios" en Nahuatl de la costa de Michoacán!

En resumen...

De México, siempre recordaré la gran amabilidad y curiosidad de la gente, la energía de la ciudad del DF, los tesoros de cultura (hispánica y antes), las ricas comidas especialmente en Oaxaca!

De Cuba, adquirí una perspectiva extraordinaria sobre un modo alternativo de vivir. Hay que admirar la nobleza de la visión de la Revolución, la humanidad de una sociedad en la que se proporcionan todos los fundamentos (comida básica, asistencia sanitaria, educación, viviendas, empleo) a todos, el empuje para minimizar derroche / reciclar / reutilizar que el resto del mundo debería emular. Por supuesto, hay muchos problemas y faltan muchas libertades... pero espero que ellos no olviden lo que tienen especialmente después de que Fidel muera...

Por fin, Guatemala, un país que siempre será apreciado para mí -- por mis buenos amigos que conocí allá, por Semuc Champey (la atracción más increíble y menos explicable del viaje!), por mi maestro Lorenzo que abrió la puerta del mundo hispánico para mí, por Chico, Paulina y Elvira, que sienten como mi segunda familia...

Además, muchas gracias a...

André y Christine, y Ben y Yasmina, por su gran hospitalidad y compañia

Mike y Annegret, por su generosidad

Carien y Inge, por una gran sorpresa de cumpleaños

y Callum, mi compañero de viajar de primera... ha sido un placer vero viajar contigo!

Mis amigos en Londres, Dubai y Malasia... nos veremos pronto!

In San Francisco now, recovering, resting. I’ve finished my journey through Latin America, richer for the experience, though somewhat poorer according to my bank.

My last week in Mexico was excellent, in Michoacan to visit “the new volcano of Paricutin” (quite extraordinary) and spend a few days on the beach at Maruata where I planned to meet my friend Karl (over from England for a week) but we utterly failed to find each other even though we were both in the same village at the same time! Nevertheless, all turned out well because Karl got to see more of Mexico and I got to know Vincenzo, a sound Italian chap – a Mexican tourist came up to us saying we were such a strange sight, a Chinese man and an Italian speaking a mixture of Spanish and Italian...

And my final weekend in Mexico City was fantastic too, with Ben & Yasmina (my friends in the city), and Karl, and Callum. I continued to be a novelty for the locals – in Teotihuacan, there was a big group of schoolchildren who treated me as though as I were a celebrity (I now somewhat understand the hardship of celebrity!) and in Xochimilco the mariachis were the ones taking pictures of us! Quite entertaining really.

I’ve see much, learnt much during the journey. It’s been a surprise how diverse the indigenous people are, especially in terms of language, because different groups migrated to the Americas from Asia at different times. I’ve been collecting some indigenous words in a few places and the differences are fascinating – for example, “good morning” is “sakcari” in Tz’utujil (around the lake of Atitlan in Guatemala), “nas eransco” in Purepecha (in the highlands of Michoacan) and “kinamikilanesepampadios” in Nahuatl from the coast of Michoacan!

In summary...

From Mexico, I will always remember the great friendliness and curiosity of the people, the energy of Mexico City, the cultural treasures (Hispanic and earlier), the delicious food especially in Oaxaca!

From Cuba, I gained an extraordinary perspective into a different way of life. One has to admire the nobility of the vision of the Revolution, the humanity of a society where all the fundamentals (basic food, healthcare, education, housing, employment) are available to all, the drive to minimize waste / recycle / reuse that the rest of the world would do well to emulate. Of course, there are many problems and many liberties are lacking... but I do hope that they don’t forget what they have especially after Fidel goes...

Finally, Guatemala, a country that will always be dear to me – for the great friends I made there, for Semuc Champey (the most incredible and least describable attraction of the whole trip!), for my teacher Lorenzo who opened the doors of the Hispanic world to me, for Chico, Paulina and Elvira, who were like a second family to me...

Furthermore, many thanks to...

André & Christine, and Ben & Yasmina, for their hospitality and company

Mike & Annegret, for their generosity

Carien & Inge, for a great birthday surprise

and Callum, my first-class travelling companion... it’s been a real pleasure travelling with you!

My friends in London, Dubai and Malaysia… I will see you all very soon!

English version below

Quedan dos semanas antes de volar a San Francisco y después a Londres. Mi aventura latinoamericana es casí terminado. Siento buen sincronización -- mis pies están cansados, mi mochila está pesada (la mayoría con bebidas alcohólicas), y, lo más importantemente, ahora tengo dificultad distinguir un zócalo del otro, una iglesia de la otra, una calle de la otra.

Pero qué experiencia extraordinaria! A veces un poco incómodo pero siempre aprovechado, siempre darme algo nuevo. Las atracciones, la gente, la comida y las bebidas han sido fantásticas, pero lo que recordaré es esta primera experiencia de viajar independientemente, en ambos sentidos, de estar solo a menudo y de viajar sin muchos planes, especialmente en las partes donde un viajero solo asiático todavía es una novedad, aun una singularidad -- en mi opinión, hacer cualquiera solo es una idea que no se está conocida acá.

Lo que la gente en algunas partes me ha molestado mucho es el tema más escrito en mi diario, y he aprendido mucho sobre mí mismo y otras personas -- algunas son curiosas (especialmente los niños), algunas son amables, algunas están tratando de ganar algo, algunas sólo son mal educadas (especialmente si gritan "Chinito!" mientras pasarme en un carro por la carretera, o mientras caminar pasarme en la calle en una manera machista, sin ninguno interés, sin ninguno intención de conversar). Por el último, Habana fue probablemente el lugar más duro para mí, seguido por los lugares alojados en Chiapas.

He aprendido no hacer caso a veces, tratar de charlar a veces, y responder en la misma manera a veces... según la situación y mi humor! Estoy agradecido por viajar a veces con mis amigos y compañeros -- normalmente ofrece un descanso bienvenido y de repente caminar por la calle necesita mucho menos energía que cuando yo estuve solo. Es un poco de un "rollercoaster" emocional, pero normalmente se da cuenta de que todo estará bien en el fin, que no es probable el treno se caiga...

PS -- Esto es la escritura más dura desde empecé aprender español. Siento los errores, pero todavía es difícil imaginar que hasta hace dos meses yo no podía escribir así.

Two weeks remain before I fly to San Francisco and on to London several days later. My Latin American adventure is drawing to a close. It feels like good timing -- my feet are tired, my rucksack is heavy-laden (mostly with assorted alcohols), and, most importantly, I am now having difficulty distingushing one pleasant zócalo (Mexican town square) from the next, one beautiful church from the next, one charming street from the next.

But what a truly remarkable experience it has been, quite discombobulating in parts but always rewarding, always giving me something new. The sights, the people, the food and the drinks have all been tremendous, but what I'll remember is this first experience of travelling independently, in both senses, of being on my own for much of the trip and of making it up as I go along, especially in parts where a lone Chinese traveller is still something of a novelty if not a complete oddity -- in fact, I think the idea of doing anything alone evidently makes little sense to anyone around here.

The hassle I've had as a lone Asian/Oriental traveller has probably been the theme most often covered in my journal, and I can safely say I have learnt a lot in the process about myself and about others -- some are just curious (especially children), some are being friendly, some are trying to get something from me, and some are just being rude or pointlessly intimidating (especially if they yell "Chinito!" as they speed past me on the highway or as they swagger past me in the street, without the slightest hint of interest in stopping or talking to me). For pointless or intimidating hassle, Habana was probably the hardest place for me, followed by out-of-the-way places in Chiapas.

I've learnt to ignore them sometimes, try to have a conversation sometimes, and respond in kind sometimes... depending on the situation and my mood! I am grateful for the good fortune of bumping into and travelling around with some of my new travelling companions from time to time -- this normally offers a welcome respite and walking down the street suddenly takes a fraction of the energy it did when I was on my own. It's proved to be a bit of an emotional rollercoaster, although, as with most rollercoaster experiences, one has a pretty good inkling that all will be fine in the end, that one is not likely to go flying off the rails...

In front of the Gran Teatro, a shameless Baroque extravagance, in Habana, the capital city of Cuba and once the greatest port of the Spanish colonies. The words that come to mind are faded magnificence, past glory, streets upon streets of grand edifices that have been crumbling away for decades.

The utterly flabbergasting Capitolio in Habana with a clear resemblance to its namesake in Washington DC and obviously built at a time when the US was Cuba's jefe (boss) not its arch-enemy.

The Plaza San Francisco de Asis in Habana Vieja (Old Habana).

Classic cars everywhere you look, including this one here on el Malecon, the Habana seafront.

The whole place is falling to pieces, apart from the lucky structures that either have been restored or are in the process of being helped, as in the case of this house facade in Trinidad.

The two currencies in circulation in Cuba. On the left is Moneda Nacional or Pesos Cubanos, which the locals get paid in and use to buy basic goods and services. On the right are Pesos Convertibles or Dólares, tourist money, though increasingly the lucky Cubans who make a living off tourists (such as the people who run the casas particulares I stayed in) have a steady income denominated in these, and so can procure a wider selection of quality goods and entertainment.

The exchange rate is about 25 Cuban pesos to 1 convertible peso, which is about 1 euro! Whilst a different range of goods is available in each currency, it became apparent sometime during my week there that going for cheap things sold in Cuban pesos was the key to making my money go further, in what can be a very expensive country for the budget traveller. For instance, a (sort of) ham and cheese sandwich will cost 10 Cuban pesos on the street in Habana, whilst touristy places will sell a slightly higher-quality version for between 2 and 3 convertible pesos, about 5 times more!

Una tienda de viveres, a shop (state-owned like all the rest) where locals buy basic food and household goods in Cuban pesos. This is the equivalent of your local corner shop or Tesco Express, though I think their merchandising style is definitely quite distinct! The thumbnail links to a high-res version so you can peruse the goods and prices on offer.

And finally here is the most stunning setting yet for my journal-writing, atop the Palacio de Valle on the Punta Gorda, a tiny sliver of the city of Cienfuegos that extends into the Bahía de Jagua. The sun is low in the sky, my journal entry is done, and my Mojito awaits (though it turned out not to be particularly distinguished).

Back in San Pedro in October. Receiving my diploma in tortilla-making from the family -- from right, Paulina (la profesora de tortillar), Francisco and Elvira.

This will be the last of the disaster updates, I think. First off, photo here on the left shows the village of Panabaj in Santiago Atitlán... it's there under the mud. Current situation in San Pedro La Laguna is good -- water, food, sanitation and health all good -- and tourists are returning and the whole place is buzzing again, which is good news for the locals. If anyone would like further information or find out how you could make a contribution, have a look at http://www.headout.net/index.html

Some reflections on Guatemala now that I am in México... in both Spanish and English:

Los Guatemaltecos

No es dudoso que la vida en México es más cómodo que en Guatemala por lo general... mucho (incluso los caminos y los autobuses) parece funcionar mejor y hay un poco más organización. Pero yo echo de menos a Guatemala y a la gente extraordinario que conocí allá.

Las indígenas extraordinarias llevando el mundo sobre sus cabezas, sirviendo las comidas calientes completas y refrescos para los pasajeros mientras el autobús atestado bota por el camino.

Las niñas de pan vendiendo su pan en San Pedro que muestran mucho habilidad comercial impresionante y resolución, a pesar de estar jóvenes.

La familia extraordinaria Mendoza-Samul con su fascinación con el mundo más allá de Guatemala aunque por ahora ellos no pueden explorarlo por viajar. Su amabilidad y generosidad durante estos tiempos 'interesantes' -- siempre recuerdo su bienvenida cuando nosotros regresamos de San Marcos después de la inundación... como regresar a hogar después de una experiencia terrible.

La gente extraordinaria trabajando por el país para reconstruir y recuperar y ganar una vida mejor para ellos y sus niños, pero siempre está optimista y bastante alegre que es probablemente necesario después de tanta calamidad -- inundaciónes, derrumbes, terremotos, erupciones de volcán, guerras civiles, golpes de estado etc. Es un contraste fuerte con algunos extranjeros (quizas algunos americanos) que dicen que la área del lago era un desastre total, que todos moríamos, que lo peor no había pasado. Parece que ellos son incorectos, pero yo confieso que muchos de nosotros disfrutábamos un poco el drama en Guatemala, porque no tenemos este drama en nuestros países. Pero la gente en Guatemala no tiene esta necesidad -- para ellos, así es la vida, y los desafíos y las recompensas por vivir en su tierra natal bonita.


The Guatemaltecos

There is no doubt that life in general is a good deal more comfortable here on the Mexican side of the border... things seem to be in better nick (including the roads and the buses) and there just seems to be a tad more organisation about the place. But I do miss Guatemala and the amazing people I got to know there.

The amazing indigenous women carrying the world on their heads, dishing up complete hot meals and drinks for passengers as the crowded bus bounces its way down the mountain roads.

The amazing 'pan' girls selling their bread in San Pedro who display such impressive commercial ability and determination at such a young age.

The amazing Mendoza-Samul family with their great fascination with the world beyond Guatemala even though at present they lack the means to explore it by travelling themselves. Their kindness and generosity as we have been with them through these 'interesting' times -- I will always remember the way they welcomed us so warmly into their house upon our return from San Marcos after the floods... it was like returning home after a terrible ordeal.

The amazing people working hard across the country to rebuild and recover, and achieve a better life for themselves and their children, but always so sanguine as I think they probably need to be after so many calamities -- floods, landslides, earthquakes, volcano eruptions, civil wars, coups etc. A stark contrast to some foreigners (some would single out a certain segment of Americans) who kept saying how the lake area was a total disaster, that we would all die, that the worst was still ahead. It now looks like they are being proved wrong, but I have to admit that many of us foreigners rather enjoyed the drama, so starved of such drama back home, obviously relishing being at the centre of things in Guatemala. But the locals here have no such drive, no such need -- for them this is just life, and the challenges and rewards of living in the beautiful place they know as their home.

Israeli Tourists

Until recently I never really thought of myself as being racist -- well I think we all have tendencies but I guess we learn to manage them and overcome them. However, I have to report a new-found aversion to Israeli backpackers in Guatemala, on account of a terrible tendency towards arrogance, miserliness, indiscriminate distrust of local people, disregard for the welfare of non-Israelis or people they otherwise are not familiar with, and a rather gruff manner to top it all off.

The first case in point, and still the best one, is that of the Israeli couple who were holed up in the church in San Marcos with us and the village when the disaster struck -- as the rest of us were trying to haul supplies up the hill from the village and keep spirits up and make sure everyone was well, this couple looked in their insurance policy and apparently found that they were covered for emergency mountain rescue by helicopter and so called the rescue helpline and demanded a helicopter! They even managed to convince a few other similarly deranged foreigners to join them... and so they were all sitting there in the hope that a chopper would turn up imminently to spirit them away from the mess, presumably as the villagers just looked on haplessly.

Then the couple accused one local youth who had been so helpful to us all morning (he was part of the evacuation crew) and who had risked his life to head back down to the Piramides site to rescue the Israeli girl's rucksack, of trying to nick the rucksack -- I tried reasoning with her that he didn't really need to tell her beforehand that he was heading down to get it if he had intended to steal it, but she was less than convinced.

On the other hand, we have also found some really lovely Israeli tourists -- notably the gentle soul who led us to El Retiro (who remarked that the hotel was a good deal and he couldn't complain... which those in the know will recognise as an atypical comment) and the group who returned with us from Finca El Paraíso -- but I regret that these are a small minority.